Bicycles need a premium grease specifically designed for bicycle use. Mechanical metal on metal inerface situations requiring long service life and extended mechanical stability in both high or low heat make our choice of lubrication critical We fight against a lot of vibration, contamination potential and other characteristics, so no one grease works on all ball bearings. I use light colored grease becuase I want to know if any dirt at all is getting in when I open up a part and check it. When I look inside a component to see if it does need renovation, this is critical, and if breakdown of lube is evident, I assume that wear has occurred. I wish to overhaul components so far before they actually fail that in fact the grease is still clean. If so, I know that no wear at all has taken place.
I require high film strength to avoid ball-race welding (black spots) or metal to metal contact of any sort. Low friction, low rolling resistance and low wear are my goals. Salt from sweat or from road salt is the enemy. I worry about condensation in this climate, which can not be avoided. I want minimum sling, maximum interval between re-packing, tacky feel (up to a point) additives that resist pressure and minimum toxicity. The requirements of this situation are so complex that intelligent mechanics can disagree. We have a great responsibility and that is why I find my fellow mechanics to be THE SALT OF THE EARTH! We are privleged to serve you.
Redline brand grease is made for extreme conditions. I don’t know how you could get better. It is fully synthetic. I think it is called CV-2. Made for wheel bearings that see extremely high operating conditions and pressures. One other that you might look into is Green Grease. It is made for harsh farming conditions.